Saturday, December 1, 2012


TUTORIAL FOR THE "WINTER BLUES" SWEATER



1) I began by tracing off a pattern that was similar to what I envisioned the final product would look like (A basic long sleeve knit top with a cowl neck).  In this case, I used Vogue 8669.  If you do not have a similar pattern, you can draft your own cowl neck shirt using the wonderful tutorial created by poldapop, which can be found here:

Poldapop Sewing Tutorials

   

2) Trace the font pattern piece such that you have a complete pattern front (see image above).

3) Determine where you would like the button placement on the front on your sweater.  I chose to place mine approximately 1.5"inches from the left seamline.

4) Starting at the shoulder and continuing into the hem, draw a new seamline 1.5" from the left side seam.  The new seamline does not need to match the pattern exactly.  Your finished product will look better if you smooth the line around the armhole (see below).
                  
5) Cut the pattern along this new seamline that you have drawn.  Add a 5/8" seam allowance to each side.

6) This next step is largely a matter of personal preference.  I chose to add an additional 8" of drape to my sweater.  You should add less or more according to your taste.

7) For every 2" of extra drape, you will draft a (somewhat) horizontal line across your pattern.  You will then cut your pattern along these lines and spread the pattern pieces by the desired amount to create the extra drape.  Because I chose to add an additional 8" of drape, I added two evenly spaced pivot points along the right side of the pattern.  I then drew two expansion lines extending from each pivot point (see below).


8) It is best to space your lines as evenly as possible along the left side of the pattern.  Make sure you do not extend the lines into the shoulder seam!

9) Cut your pattern along each of the expansion lines that you have drawn.  Cut just to, but not through the pivot point on the right seamline.  Expand your pattern approximately 2" at each expansion line (see below).  Use this new pattern to cut out your front piece.



 CONSTRUCTION

1) Prior to sewing the pattern together, reinforce the smaller leftmost front pattern piece that you created by adhering fusible stretch interfacing to the entire back of the piece.  This is a weight-bearing piece and it is imperative that you stabilize it so that it will not stretch. 

2) With the right side of the largest pattern front piece facing, arrange your pattern front such that the extra fabric creates pleasing drapes.  Ensure that you take up as much extra fabric as you have added, so that your two front pieces are the same length along the left seamline.  Once you have done this, pin or baste the left seamline in place, prior to sewing it to the smaller stabilized piece. 

3) You can now assemble the remainder of the pattern according to the pattern instructions.  After your sweater has been sewn together, you have the option of adding buttons or another decorative element along the left seamline.

Good luck!  This is my first tutorial, so hopefully it makes sense.  Please feel free to contact me with questions.









2 comments:

  1. Thanks for the shout out! I love this top and I'll save your tutorial so I can try it sometime!

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  2. Thanks so much for making this tutorial. Helps to understand how to alter the pattern to make the cowl neck.

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